Deadzone Plague Stage 2A and Stage 3 Conversions

I have three each of the three different Plague Stage 2A sculpts for Mantic Game’s Deadzone. I’ve already painted one of each which you can see here and I’ve always intended to make some alterations to the remaining models, to give them some variety.

The Plague Deadzone team ‘The Kovoss Kryptics’ are an absolute gift for converting Plague Stage 2A and Stage 3 miniatures; I picked up a team during the latest Dreadball Kickstarter. The tentacled, clawed and spiked arms and the array of bodies and heads of different Warpath universe alien species are great fun.

I decided to take advantage of the ability to adjust restic through ‘hot water treatment’ and so, armed with some inspiration from online, my tool kit, restic Stage 2A and Stage 3s and a kettle; set about creating this motley crew.

Plague Stage 2A Conversions

Plague 3A Conversions

Here’s a look at each gribbly in turn. First up the Stage 2As:

Plague 2A Conversions (6)

Stage 2As are nicknamed ‘Leapers’ in the Warpath ‘verse, so I decided to really try and capture the feel of one hurtling across the Deadzone, vaulting over scenery to get to its foe. The addition of a clawed arm adds to the ferocious look.

Plague 2A Conversions (7)

This was a simple conversion, although fiddly to achieve. I glued the piece of Battlezone terrain to the base first and them pinned the arm to it without glue,so the palm of the hand could swivel on the terrain.

Because the miniature’s arm was not designed to be glued in place at this angle, I knew I’d have to pin the arm to the body at the shoulder and fill with greenstuff to get the two parts to stick together and survive handling and transport in the future.

So began a good few minutes of faffing, first positioning the arm at the correct angle on the piece of Battlezone and then holding the shoulder against the body to see where I’d need to drill a hole so that the two parts would fit together in a way that was practical and yet gave me the dynamic look I was trying to achieve.

Plague 2A Conversions (8)

Having an extra arm myself would have helped me here as I’d get one bit just tight, move the second piece to match and lose the positioning of the first piece. over and over. After some healthy swearing I managed to get it all looking just right and was then able to pin the clawed arm in place and finally add the head, adjusting it so that the face was still looking forward given the new angle the torso was at. In the end I’ve been able to capture just the look I had in my mind’s eye.

Plague 2A Conversions (9)

The second Stage 2A is my least favourite of the three sculpts, so I decided to jazz it up a bit with my favourite piece from the Korvoss Kryptics set, a tentacled arm. I couldn’t find any Nameless heads so used an insectoid one to give a real hybrid feel to this Stage 2A.

Plague 2A Conversions (10)

I pinned him to the piece of wall that comes with the Plague 2A set to try and give him the feel of being crouched, coiled and about to leap off and live up to his nickname.

Plague 2A Conversions (13)

The clenched fist on the right arm (again from the Korvoss Kryptics set) helps to give the sense the Stage 2A is tensing, ready to uncoil.

Plague 2A Conversions (12)

This was the simplest conversion of the three, but I’m still happy with the result.

Plague 2A Conversions (11)

The third Stage 2A conversion has had some hot water treatment and uses a head and two arms from the Dreadball team, to allow him to be swinging about the top of a Battlezone lamp post. He’s resting one foot on the cap from the Industrial Battlezone pipes. With that particular head, he reminds me a little of Doomsday, from the Superman comic books.

Plague 2A Conversions (1)

Plague 2A Conversions (2)

Plague 2A Conversions (3)

Plague 2A Conversions (4)


When I get around to painting this chap, I’m going to add some damaged wiring from the end of the lamp post. This is my favourite of the three Stage 2A conversions and he’s inspired by a very similar conversion I saw online a couple of years ago.

The four Stage 3 conversions are just a bit of fun. I don’t have the right heads to go with the various bodies and tails etc, but what the heck; the Plague are supposed to be mutations, right?

Plague Stage 3A Conversions (4)

Plague Stage 3A Conversions (1)

Plague Stage 3A Conversions (2)

Plague Stage 3A Conversions (3)

These guys will mix in nicely with and add variety to my other restic and hard plastic Stage 2s.

More photos as and when these guys get painted.

Thanks for reading! 🙂


Send in the Big Guns! Mantic Games Undead Army Balefire Catapults, Painted.

Here’s my Undead army’s artillery, in the form of a battery of three Balefire Catapults.

Balefire Catapults (1)

There’s usually a good debate about how effective these are in games of Kings of War. With them only having a one in three chance of hitting, you really need to take a battery of three to stand a chance of doing damage each round (lines of sight etc permitting), and three Balefires is a lot of points to sink (300), so I only tend to select them for my army in bigger games , 2,000 points and upwards.

But rules aside, these are nicely detailed hard plastic kits that allow you to build some variety into the look of each Balefire and its crew by positioning each catapult’s arm differently and varying the look of the skeleton crew.

Here’s a look at all three from one side:

Balefire Catapults (2)Balefire Catapults (3)Balefire Catapults (4)

And the other:

Balefire Catapults (5)Balefire Catapults (6)Balefire Catapults (7)

In these photos you can see some of the nice little touches that come with this kit, such as the arm option with the telescope, giving one o he crew a good ‘spotter’ look and the pointing “There, fire over there!” arm.

A skull is sculpted as being loaded onto each catapult and you get a bag o’ ammo and arms clutching several skulls to make up a ‘loader’ crew member.

I’ve painted the catapult’s payload in a sickly glowing green, to match the look of necromantic energy I’ve used across other models and units in my army.

Balefire Catapults (11)

I’ve added a white rose transfer to the protective shield son the front of each catapult, as this is my army’s sigil:

I painted the wood in a pale colour, thinking of cut wood rather than the darker browns of bark, and an Army Painter Strong Tone ink wash has brought all the nice detail in the sculpt, the wood grain and the rope and many bits of metal bolting and lashing the contraptions together.

Looking at them again whilst writing this blog, I think I’ll go back and hit each catapult with a little bit of the rust effect paint, to make them look really weathered!

Thanks for reading! 🙂

The Other One’s Guide to Painting – Yorkshire Stone Tutorial

After posting up my blog about my Fortified Manor, I received some very flattering comments about how I’d painted the set. Amongst them were a couple of requests for a quick tutorial on how I painted the ‘Yorkshire Stone’ effect. So here we go! 🙂

A quick note first. You may be wondering “Why Yorkshire stone..?”. Two reasons. Reason One: Everybody seems to paint their stone walls, rock faces, hill sides in some variation of black basecoat drybrushed grey. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with this at all, I simply decided that I wanted my scenery to look different. So different how?

That brings me to Reason Two: I live in Yorkshire and ever since I moved here in 1990, I’ve been enchanted by the colour of Yorkshire stone, especially when sunlight is shining on the local buildings and they almost light up with a honeyed glow. So, I decided to try and replicate the golden colour of Yorkshire Stone in my scenery.

You can see examples of this (with varying degrees of success) in how I’ve painted my Tabletop World Stone Bridge, Windmill and the GW Deathknell Watch, Walls and Fences and Fortified Manor. It’s after painting the Fortified Manor that I feel I’m finally happy with how the stone effect looks.

So, here’s how I do it, using a section of stone wall from the GW Garden of Morr kit as an example.

After washing the kit in warm, sightly soapy and allowing it to thoroughly dry, I undercoated it in Vallejo Model Colour Black paint using my airbrush. No reason you can’t use your go-to black undercoat for this, or even brush the undercoat on, as long as it’s a thin coat of paint with even coverage.

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial

Next step, add your base coat. I use Miniature Paints #62 Sand for my Yorkshire stone colour. I have a large tub of this I bought around 2000 which is still great to use, but a quick Google search shows you can get it from Ral Partha Europe in case your local model/craft store doesn’t stock this range.

I airbrushed this on for speed and convenience, leaving a little bit of variation here and there by spraying the paint less thickly in places. Once dried, the wall looks like this.

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial (1)

I then used a paintbrush to apply the base #62 Sand colour to random pieces of stone, the pillars and capstones. (note the airbrushed base coat looks a little darker in this picture than the one above simply because it was getting dark outside as I took this photo). With the base colour added here and there, the wall looks like this:

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial (2)

I next mixed a little brown paint into the base colour and painted a couple of random stones using this colour and then did the same by mixing some grey into the base colour and picking out another few stones. This gives four different shades of stone (airbrushed base colour, brushed on base colour and sand/brown and sand/grey), which I’ve found seems to give a final overall effect that’s pleasing to the eye. If you want to go to town you could mix in a little olive green with the base colour too and pick out a few more stones in this.

I painted the earth at the base of the wall Vallejo Model Colour 70.872 Chocolate Brown, the gate and spikes on top of the wall Vallejo Model Colour 70.863 Gunmetal Grey and picked out the Skulls in Army Painter Skeleton Bone. The wall now looked like this:

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial (3)

The next step is the one that really brings things to life. I brushed on a wash of Army Painter Strong Tone ink. This is marvellous stuff and I always have it and the Soft and Dark Tone inks in my paint box. Apply it liberally. I find that using a flat brush results in less air bubbles in the ink as you apply it, compared to using a ’round’ bristled brush.

Once you’ve coated the entire wall section, give it a minute or two to settle and then look at the wall to see if the ink is pooling too heavily in any one place. if it is, you can remove some using a paintbrush or small twists of tissue paper. NB -I always lay my walls down flat if the model allows it when the ink is drying, so there’s less chance of the ink running down to the bottom half of the piece of scenery.

Give it  a couple of hours to completely dry and the wall looks like this:

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial (4)

Now at this stage, your wall looks pretty fine, so you could leave it here if you like. But a final drybrush and some detail work will really make it pop.

Now before you drybrush the wall, be absolutely certain that the ink has completely dried. Very little ruins all your hard paintwork like taking a drybrush to a model where the wash isn’t dry and then smearing said wash all over the upper surface of the model. Trust me on this.

I used a 50:50 mix of the Minature Paint #62 sand Vallejo Model Colour 70.847 Dark Sand (which despitethe name is much lighter in colour than Miniature Paint #62 Sand) to drybrush all the stone work, skulls included; whilst trying to avoid the gate and spikes.

When drybrushing, try to work the bristles of the brush down the model predominantly, as light generally hits something from above, not below.

I followed this with  a drybrush of just the Vallejo Dark Sand and finally  a 50:50 mix of Vallejo Dark Sand and pure white. After a quick touch up of the gunmetal paint on the hoops either side of the gate, I added some Modelmates rust effect paint to the metal sections and highlighted the skulls here and there with the same Dark Sand:White mix.

There you have it – job done:

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial (5)

The Army Painter Strong Tone ink ties together the different shades of stone brilliantly and even adds a degree of shading to each individual block of stone that comprises the wall. It’s really great stuff and I highly recommend it.

I’ll add some static grass to the base of the wall so it ties in with my gaming boards, but that is how I paint Yorkshire Stone on my models. I hope you find this tutorial useful.

Thanks for reading 🙂

15mm Salamander Army for Kings of War

Before Mantic games existed, I played Warhammer using 15mm miniatures. This was chiefly down to what I considered the horrendous cost (even then) of Games Workshop miniatures. Other reasons are that I thought then (and still do today) that rank upon rank of 15mm miniatures laid out on a table just looks great, somehow more impressive than 28mm to me; and that there was fun in looking through the 15mm ranges available and seeng what you could buy or kitbash to fill entries from the army list.

I had a large Undead army, a fledgling Tomb King army and a small Lizardman army. Then Mantic began, my friend Mister C introduced me to them and 28 mm gaming suddenly seemed affordable. The rest, is history,as you can see from all the 28mm Undead army blog posts here.

Recently Mister C has dug out an old 15mm army and devised base sizes to bring it into line with Kings of war at the smaller scale. This weekend, I’ve dug my Lizardman army out of the shed so that I can sit down and begin to work out how if could play as a Salamander army.


Looking at these Lizardmen for the first time in years, I’m very pleased with how they look and feel quite keen to get underway with a new army list and the work of rebasing them. That’s easier said than done, as at this stage I don’t know what material I’m going to use to create the bases, but at least I can have fun planning out a new army.

Here’s a unit by unit look at the army as it is today. In the future I’ll update the post to show the rebased and renamed units.

First up, my Slann Mage Priest:

Sadly, I don’t think there’s  good ‘port over to the Salamnder army for this chap. He was kitbashed from an old pre-painted D&D model, whose head I bulked out with Milliput to give him a more Slann-like look. The throne is two slotta bases glued together with pieces from my bits box to make up the throne.

Skink Terradon (IIRC) riders. These will become Ghekkotah Skyraiders.



Saurus warriors, who could become Salamander primes or Ancients. This with spears can be Ceremonial Guard.




A Saurus Champion / Salamander Battle Captain.


Mounted Saurus / Kaisenor Lancers


Kroxigor / Tyrants


Jungle Swarms (who don’t really have a counterpart in the salamander list).


Skinks and their mobile ‘cannons’. Can’t remember the names in the Lizardman list, but these will make Lekelidons or Komodons for the Salamanders.


Skinks / Ghekkotah Warriors


More Skinks with blowpipes / Ghekkotah Hunters


Skink characters who could become Mage-Priests and (with a bit of converting) Heralds.


Lastly, here’s two units I was working on that never got finished. This chap will make a great Battle Captain on Rhinosuar


And a W.I.P Stegadon that will make a fine Ankylodon Battle Platform.


So, that’s everything as it stands. Updates to come as progress is made and possibly; new units purchased…

Thanks for reading!




Games Workshop Fortified Manor Scenery, Painted

I bought the Games Workshop Fortified Manor set several years ago. I think it’s such a cool-looking stronghold and the separate components offer some good flexibility in placing scenery, with an individual tower, chapel and walls. I’m very pleased to have bought one before GW slashed their scenery range in favour of the Age of Sigmar stuff (yuk).

I’ve  painted up the Walls and Fences already, but have only just got around to starting to tackle the main parts of the set. I’m essentially using them as practise for when I paint my Tabletop World Blacksmith’s Forge and Watermill.

Now the Fortified Manor is done, I’m happy with how the ‘Yorkshire stone’ effect has turned out and that I can replicate it. on other scenery pieces.

Fortified Manor (1)

Fortified Manor (3)

The set was undercoated in black and I then airbrushed on  a thin, varigated layer of Miniature Paints ‘#62 Sand’ colour as a  base coat. I’ve had a BIG jar of this for years and it’s a great colour. I used it on my Deathknell Watch  tower.

Fortified Manor (4)

Fortified Manor (5)

Fortified Manor (7)

Fortified Manor (6)


I then mixed up some Army Painter Skeleton Bone with the sand colour and airbrushed it onto the broad, smooth sections of wall on the tower, chapel and their joining section, which I see as being covered with plaster or render. This match the plaster sections on my Tabletop World Stone Bridge.

Cap stones on battlements, window and door frames and various cornerstones and buttress stones were painted in pure Miniature Paint #62 Sand , leaving the darker, airbrushed sand parts as varigated colour. I mixed the sand colour with grey, brown and green; and then  paint random stones here and  there with those colours to add even more variety to the stone work. This was time consuming but I’m very pleased with the effect.

The plastered/rendered sections were washed with Army Painted Soft Tone Ink and the stone work in Strong Tone ink. Plaster and stone sections received several dry brushings with Army Painter Skeleton Bone, gradually having white added up to a final, very light drybrush of pure white.

The roof tiles were painted Vallejo Model Colour 70.867 Dark Blue Grey and washed in Army Painter Dark Tone ink. Vallejo Model Colour 70.943 Grey Blue was dry brushed on and mixed with more and more white up to  a last drybrush of pure white. I love how the roof tiles look, but do think they look a bit too clean. I may need to add some mucky green here and there to make them look less pristine.

Here’s a closer look at the various sub-sections that make up this set. First up, the watchtower. here it is W.I.P

Fortified_Manor_WIP (1)

And the finished piece:

Fortified Manor (8)

Fortified Manor (11)

Fortified Manor (12)

Fortified Manor (10)

Fortified Manor (13)

There’s lot of extra , optional pieces in this set; wooden bracing structure, lanterns, hanging chains, sword racks etc in addition to the rich detail that’s simply part of the sculpt. Aa nd with this being a GW kit – there is, of course; plethora of skulls!

The Chapel next, which you can see W.I.P here;

Fortified_Manor_WIP (2)

And the finished piece here:

Fortified Manor (14)

Fortified Manor (15)

Fortified Manor (17)

Fortified Manor (16)

Fortified Manor (18)

The section that bridges and joins the Watchtower to the Chapel:

Fortified_Manor_WIP (3)

Fortified Manor (21)

Fortified Manor (22)

I think of this little piece as the ‘Outhouse of Doom’ as it brings to mind an outside toilet 😉

Fortified Manor (19)

Fortified Manor (20)

And lastly, the courtyard walls. These are the arts I’m happiest with, as I feel the varigated stone effect and highlighting has worked really well  on them:

Fortified_Manor_WIP (4)

Fortified Manor (23)

Fortified Manor (24)

Fortified Manor (25)

I painted the shield on the wooden gate in blue and yellow, as these are the colours on the Evans coat of arms.

Fortified Manor (26)

This set will get a lot of use on games of Kings of war, but i think it’ll also see a lot of action in future games of Vanguard, where the individual components will prove to be very useful.

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Painted Gate for Cthulhu Wars

The one Cthulhu Wars miniature you know you’re going to need in each and every game are the gates. And lots of them.

After painting up a regiment of zombies for my Kings of War army, I needed  a break from panting rank and file so I decided to try out a test colour scheme ad techniques for a Cthulhu Wars gate.

Here’s how it turned out:

CW Gate (2)

The gates were originally 2D card counters, which work perfectly well, but as one of the stretch goals from the first Cthulhu Wars kickstarter campaign, fully sculpted plastic gates were unlocked. I think these are superb. The detail of the sculpt is great and the design is clever too, as you can fit both a Cultist on the gate to control it or one of the larger monsters (in the very rare circumstances that a monster can control a gate).

Here’s the original card gate and on the right, an unpainted plastic gate:

CW Gate (9)

I decided to try and replicate the blue/white glow of the card gate on the plastic version and I’m happy with how this has turned out. Some more photos from different angles first so you can see the effect I’ve achieved:

CW Gate (1)

CW Gate (3)

CW Gate (4)

CW Gate (5)

CW Gate (6)

CW Gate (7)

CW Gate (8)

I love the skull that’s been deposited in one of the four… ‘receptacles’ on the gate. Just had to paint that skull sitting in a pool of fresh blood for  a nice bit of contrast with the cold grey and blues.

The gate was quite simple to paint and I’m happy it didn’t take me too long to do, so I feel I’m able to paint all my gates (or enough for all the possibilities in a 3 to 5 player game, as I don’t have any of the larger sized Cthulhu Wars maps) to the same standard.

The gate was undercoated in black, with a Vallejo Dark Blue Grey #70.867 base coat. I then washed the whole miniature with Army Painter Strong Tone ink and applied two layers of drybrushing. First a 3:1 mix of the Dark Blue grey with white, then a 1:1 mix of the same.

I then picked out all the skulls (I didn’t realise just how many there are until I started painting ’em all!) in Army Painter Skeleton Bone and then washed them all with Army Painter Strong Tone ink, adding a bit more wash to any areas of the grey rocks where the drybrushing was a bit too heavy.

Next up the blue glow. I airbrushed on Vallejo Andrea Blue #70.841, working from the centre of the gate outwards and working my ‘around the clock’ so all the gate was bathed in a blue colour emitting from its centre. I gave  a quick blast of this blue onto the sigils on each of the gate’s four raised columns. I mixed white in with the Andrea Blue in a 4:1 mix and then carefully airbrushed this much brighter blue around the circle in the centre of the gate and over the pentagram, with a quick blast again around the clock so the lighter blue was spilling out from the centre too.

Lastly, I used a fine detail brush to paint pure white into the central circle, pentagram, and various sigils and then drybrushed pure white onto the rest of the gate, again working from the centre outwards.

A quick retouch of bone colour here and there to the skulls and a daubing of my blood effect onto the skull in the receptacle ( a 1:1 mix of Tamiya X27 clear red and Army Painter Strong Tone ink) and the painting is done.

I need to varnish the whole thing, but will use my tried and tested method of using spray gloss varnish followed by a coat of spray matt varnish to dull down the shine. I’ll cover the bloody skull with a blob of blu-tack so that the fresh blood effect isn’t ruined by the matt  varnish.

I can see me losing the will to live a little when it comes to picking out all the skulls when I come to batch paint a large number of these gates in one sitting, but looking forward to playing with the glow effect with the airbrush should keep me going.

I briefly considered painting a few gates with the light effect of the colours of the different Cthulhu Wars factions (green for Great Cthulhu, red for Dark Goat etc) but then this would mean having to sift through the box of gates to find the correct colour to use and then doing so again should a rival faction take over that gate and frankly, that all seems to be too much of pain to bother. I’m pleased with how this gate looks, so will paint all of them in the same way, although I will (eventually) paint the Colour Out of Space gates in their respective colours, so those gates still work with those additional rules.

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Reaper Miniatures Bones ‘Dragons Don’t Share’ Tower

I bought this awesome ruined tower as part of the “Dragon’s Don’t Share” boxed set from Reaper Miniatures Bones range. There’s an excellent Dragon and several adventurers included in the set, but I bought it mainly so I could use these ruins in my games of Kings of War.


DDS Tower (2)

DDS Tower (3)

There’s four pieces to these ruins, the lower and upper sections of a ruined tower and two sections of ruined stairway that lead up to it. First up, the ruined tower. Here’s the two pieces together:

DDS Tower (4)

DDS Tower (5)

And a closer look at the stairwell in the top of the tower.

DDS Tower (6)

The top section of my tower had warped a little during transit. I used the ‘hot water and ice’ treatment to soften and straighten it, but over time it’s warped back again. It doesn’t matter too much though. Unless you know what you’re looking for it isn’t really obvious and if anything; it adds to the decrepit and precarious look of the tower.

Now the lower part of the tower. This is a great sculpt, with loads of detail. The Bones material holds fine detail very well and seems very well suited to solid, chunky scenery like this.

DDS Tower (8)

DDS Tower (9)

DDS Tower (10)

DDS Tower (11)

DDS Tower (7)

I’ve tried to enhance the sculpted details with washes and carefully placed tufts poking up in the broken areas of stone.

The small, lower part of the stairs:

DDS Tower (17)

DDS Tower (18)

DDS Tower (19)

DDS Tower (20)

And the larger part:DDS Tower (12)

DDS Tower (13)

DDS Tower (14)

DDS Tower (15)

DDS Tower (16)

I added static grass to the base of this piece, so it fits in well with my Rolling Fields Tablescapes tiles.  Again, there’s so much great detail here; cracks, rough textures, rubble and stones. These pieces were a joy to paint.

I used my airbrush to undercoat the pieces in Vallejo Chocolate brown, then airbrushed on Miniatures Paints Sand colour as a base coat, leaving the brown showing through here and there for some varigation in colour.

I then mixed the sand colour in varying rations with browns, greens and greys and picked out some blocks of stone in these different colours, to again try and give more of the natural variation in colour stone has. I shy away from the ‘black drybrushed with grey’ approach to my stone and rocks, trying instead to more emulate the local millstone grit here in Yorkshire, which is quite golden in colour.

A wash of Army Painter Soft Tone ink brought out the fine details and tied the colours in the stonework together nicely. I then drybrushed in Army Painter skeleton Bone and a final very light pure white drybrush and added tufts and static grass.

This last shot gives you a sense of scale, with a troop of 10 Mantic Games 28mm Skeletons:

DDS Tower (21)

This last photo is of the paving in the base of the tower, my favourite part of all the sculpting on these pieces:

DDS Tower (22)

Thanks for reading! 🙂


Zombie Regiment for Kings of War

Hot off the painting table is this regiment of Zombies for my Undead army in Kings of War:

Golem Regiment (10)

Golem Regiment (8)

Golem Regiment (7)

Golem Regiment (6)

Golem Regiment (2)

The striking big fella dominating the unit is a Flesh Golem by Minion Miniatures. I backed their Kickstarter a couple of years ago to get this model, as I thought it looked just plain cool! You can see the model unassembled and unpainted in an earlier bog post.

The gravestones are by Renedra, with a couple of GW ones from the Garden of Morr set which I had in my bitz box. There are a couple of other GW bitz in there too, such as the body of the Zombie on the far left of he front rank.

The gravestones tie this regiment in with my Zombie Horde and my Ghouls, which feature more gravestones and tombs.

The Flesh golem is a great, patchwork monster. here’s a few more shots showing off his ‘Jhn Carpenter’s The Thing’ inspired face, hideous tentacle arm, flesh shredding shoulder spikes ans clawed arm:

Golem Regiment (5)

Golem Regiment (9)

I love the carapace on the back on the tentacle arm. I painted the Flesh Golem to try and emphasise its patchwork nature, like it had been sewn together from several different beasts, so the legs, torso and face are a more normal skin tone, the clawed arm a rotten green and the tentacle a noisome, ruddy  flesh colour.

There are a few details on the base, like a Zombie head popping up from the ground, a zombie in the process of devouring a victim, a severed arm crawling about and a raven perched on one of the gravestones -I’ll get photos of these too and post them up here. Got to dash now as I’m playing a game of Kings of war tonight and need to get the battlefield ready!

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Mummy Regiment for Kings of War

Here’s my regiment of Mummies for use in my Kings of War Undead Army. It’s comprised of two Troops so I have good flexibility in choosing my army, but the vast majority of the time, I field them as a regiment.

Mummy Regiment 1

Mummy Regiment 2

Mummy Regiment 5

Mummy Regiment 6

The unit is predominantly made up of Mantic’s mummies. I found two Tomb Kings miniatures in a bitz box at  a wargames show (the standard bearer and musician) and thought they would add some variety to the unit. I made up two champion figures from other Tomb Kings pieces I have.

Mummy Regiment 3

Mummy Regiment 4

Mummy Regiment 7

I do feel it makes the unit look a bit more Gee Dubs than Mantic, as the command models are what you see first, but I’m happy with the overall effect. I had a spare carrion model from GW’s Warmaster range and added that for  bit of extra ‘colour’.

Mummy Regiment 9

Mummy Regiment 10

Here’s a close up of one of the Mantic Mummies:

Mummy Regiment 8

From research for an old 15mm Egyptian army I started but never finished, I vaguely remember reading that Egyptian marines wore red and blue. Now, I know these Mummies aren’t Egyptian, but using red for their main colour contrasts nicely with my Skeleton units (whose main colours are green and brown) and compliments other elite units such as my Soul Reaver infantry.

I airbrushed and drybrushed some sandy-coloured dirt onto the tattered ends of the red cloaks. The armour is a bronze colour with a grimey green wash to try and give a verdigris effect. The weapons look fat to uniform to me now, looking at these photos, so I think I’ll add a little rust effect to them.

I painted the Mummies flesh a dark grey, based on actual Mummies I’ve seem in museums.

The icon on the banner and shields is the White Rose motif I’ve chosen for my army. I imagine that the mummies have allied themselves with /been pressed into service for the Lady Melantha, my Vampire  Countess and army general and have adopted her White Rose sigil to show allegiance.

This painted regiment will see action for the first time during any games I play as part of Mantic’s Edge of the abyss summer campaign. Fingers crossed that they don’t suffer the curse of the freshly painted miniatures.

Thanks for reading!




Cthulhu Wars Miniatures: Onslaught 1 and 2

WI backed both the original Cthulhu Wars and the Cthulhu Wars: Onslaught 2 Kickstarters. The first RPG I ever played was 3rd Ed Call of Cthulhu and I was always fascinated by the macabre and alarming tentacular beasties that were illustrated in the ‘Beastiary’ sections.

I bought some of the early lead CoC miniatures, some Investigators, cultists and gribblies and enjoyed painting them. (If I ever find hem, I’ll post pictures here0.

Nearly three decades later and I discover the Cthulhu Wars Kickstarter, chock full of superb 28mm Mythos beasties. Well, I didn’t have to think twice – I was in, for as much as I could afford. And not long after, I jumped in with both feet for the Onslaught 2 Kickstarter. Just over a week after that was delivered, (there was quite a delay, but it was well worth the wait) Petersen Games have launched their Cthulhu Wars Onslaught 3 Kickstarter, which is currently live. Go check it out, there’s some great new sculpts involved (especially the Masks of Nyarlathotep set).

But back to Onslaught 1 & 2. After receiving Onslaught 2 in the post, I began to wonder just how many Mythos beasties I now actually have. So, I put them all onto one table. You can see how that looks below..!


“Errr…911? Yeah, I … ah… I think the stars may be right. Or something…”

And I didn’t fit them all into the frame for that shot! Here’s a quick tour of some of the miniatures. Firstly some Cultists who’d better know what they’re doing as they’ve summoned Cthulhu to the power of three (or one ‘Buffthulu’ as the central sculpt has been dubbed by Cthulhu Wars fans; and two Cthulhus)


The Cthulhu on the right is a glow-in-the-dark version, a stretch goal from Onslaught 2. The ice blue dude to his right is Rhan-Tegoth; another glow-in-the-dark Great Old One (GOO)


Next up, the ‘King in Yellow’ faction. The fearsome-looking large dude in the middle is Hast- *cough* He-Who-Is-Not-To-Be-Named , with the glow-in-the=dark version to its right.


The ‘Crawling Chaos’ faction, with the superb sculpt of Nyarlathotep dominating the centre of the shot.


My favourite faction sculpts ‘The Opener of the Way’ aka Yog-Sothoth and his cohorts.


What’s all this Ia! then? Oh, it’s the ‘Black Goat’ faction, Shub-Nigguarth and her Dark Young. Tentacles-a-plenty and some superb sculpts. Very gribbly and the fully capturing the essence of the Mythos. Gibbering horror!


Tsathoggua doesn’t look too pleased to have been woken from his slumber by this High Priest..!


The Watcher of the Green Pyramid, with Slime Moulds to its left and right.


A Hound of Tindalos emerging from the right angles of an intermodal shipping container. This great sculpt, along with ‘Buffthulu’ above, were made available through artist Richard Luong’s Kickstarter which produced an artbook of his work from the first Cthulhu Wars kickstarter. As far as I can tell, Richard hasn’t been involved with Cthulhu Wars Onslaughts 2 and 3; and as good as the artwork is for both of these, I miss seeing his exceptional work. I encourage you to look at his Tentacles and Teeth Facebook page for more of his eerie and visually arresting art.


A gigantic Dhole, about to make a Cultist’s day very bad (albeit very brief)…


A selection of independent Great Old Ones, with Leng Spiders and Gugs to their right – none of which you’d care to meet in a dark alley. Or anywhere else. At all. Ever. No sir.


Abhoth, the so-called ‘Source of Uncleanliness’ -my absolute favourite miniature from all three Onslaughts to date. A giant, dripping brain sat astride a pustulant mass of flesh and slime with writhing tentacles, emerging from a bubbling lake of filth. Sanity check please!


A Star Vampire. you can’t really make it out in this photo, but there’s a screaming victim laying prone on its base, as the Vampire feeds… *shiver*


Bholes, Zoogs and Cultists. The dark red miniatures were collector’s editions from the 1st Onslaught Kickstarter. I was particularly glad of these, as it gave me some sculpts that I hadn’t otherwise been able to afford (as despite having bought a helluva lot of Cthulhu Wars products, I haven’t been able to buy everything). Cthulhu Wars is a premium product game, top quality stuff and the price points reflect this.


Edit 10th August 2017

Woo-Hoo! Just over a week ago I saw a post on the ‘Cthulhu Wars Cultists’ Facebook group (heartily recommended if you’re a fan of either Cthulhu Wars game or the Cthulhu Mythos in general and essential if you like both) saying that a UK retailer had some Cthulhu Wars items back in stock. I took a look immediately and was delighted to find that the three factions I didn’t have were available; ‘Windwalker ‘ (with Ithaqua and Rhan-Tegoth  as the GOOs), ‘Sleeper’ (Tsathoggua) and the Tcho Tcho (with Ubbo-Sathla). And all three were at a discounted price too!

Bank balance and overdraft be damned, I clicked and ordered all three sets. I hadn’t expected to be able to get any of these here in the UK outside of the Onslaught 3 kickstarter so I’m very pleased to have been able to do so. They arrived just the other day and I’m really looking forward to trying them out in a game (especially the Tcho Tchos) as the asymmetrical rules Sandy Petersen has created really give each faction their own unique flavour, style and strategies to discover and master.

First up, the Windwalker faction.


These look like they’re white in the photo above, but they are actually a very appropriate frosty blue colour.The Gnoph-Keh (the quite tall furry beasts with long, low-slung arms, one of which is on the far left of the photo above) never really appealed to me when I saw their concept art, or photos of the finished sculpts, but seeing them in the flesh/plastic I do like them – they’re suitably weird and yet menacing.

The Sleeper action with the mighty Tsathoggua bigature (he ain’t mini). This is one solid hunka plastic. Man, summoning this GOO has got to be so satisfying. “I summon Tsathoggua…” *puts bigature on table* Boom! (table shakes).


The Formless Spawn are another great sculpt- oozing tentacular toothy gribblies. And the Wizards? What the what!? These guys are just plain odd. It’s a cape, no it’s wings! How many legs has he got, they’re not even human-shaped and Ye Gods what the hell is he pulling apart and proudly waving at us..?!? Ewww!

Just look how pleasssed the Sssnakeman on the left of this shot is to sssee you. Rubbing his little handsss with glee.


Last and by no means least, the Tcho Tcho faction. The Tcho Tcho have always creeped me out, with their almost-human-but-not-quite vibe. This faction is different from all the others in that their GOO is not worshipped by them, it’s their slave. This faction has its own unique sculpts for the Cultists, setting them apart nicely from the other factions.

Unique Cultist sculpts for each faction are being introduced as part of the Onslaught 3 kickstarter; a completely unnecessary but utterly cool development.

The Tcho Tcho have fewer monster types than the other factions. They just have the Proto-Shoggoths to utilise, but what great beasts these are. Take a look at the concept art first (which I think is by Kent Hamilton, my apologies if I have this wrong).

You can clearly see in the illustration that the Proto-Shoggoth is erupting from a human disguise and the shedded skin is ripping and crumpling away . Reminds me of something from one of my all-time favourite movies – John Carpenter’s The Thing.


And here’s the finished sculpt in all its toothy glory. Smile for the camera! Cheese!!!


Blimey, I have got a LOT of painting to do, but it’s going to be fun!

Thanks for reading! 🙂