Deadzone Industrial Battlezone: Conveyor Belt Station

I originally assembled this 3.5 cube long building to accommodate the conveyor belt sections from my Industrial Battlezone / Industrial Accessories Terraincrate pieces.

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However, in the weekend of frenzied construction that saw me build my fortified walls/ compound terrain, I partly cannibalised the above structure for some of the half cube treadplate pieces, to act as battlements. I didn’t have any qualms about doing this, as I’d realised that this 3.5 cube structure was just a little too big for games of Deadzone and that I wouldn’t get much use out of it.

So, I took what parts were left over and constructed a far more games-of-Deadzone-friendly tower for the conveyor belt to run to.

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I added some pieces of cork, cat litter and sand to the conveyor belt sections to represent mined minerals and decided to paint them a kind of ‘martian red’ as a contrast to my mainly yellow and blue Battlezone terrain.

I airbrushed this red colour onto the tower in the nooks and crannies and onto the ramp, to try and give the impression of a build up of this red dust.

I imagine that a worker or two would be stood on the first level of the tower, watching the minerals trundling past, removing anything or interest (or that poses a problem) before the rocks are dropped down a ramp and into a pile, waiting to be collected. (I’m going to create a pile of minerals to place at the bottom of the ramp, to finish this structure off.

I snuck in a couple of interesting bits and bobs amongst the rocks:

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Looks like somebody came to an end in the mine…

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And what’s this segmented cylindrical container..? Could it be the source of the Plague outbreak here at Outpost 31? Me thinks so…

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I had fun painting these (especially sponging on the rust and dirt) until I realised that in all the rest of my Industrial terrain, the blue cubes are at the bottom of the structures, with yellow on top. D’oh! Oh, well – I’m considering this one structure the exception that proves the rule.

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Thanks for reading!

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Deadzone Industrial Battlezone – Pumping Station

I recently spent a day off work assembling structures for Deadzone with the Battlezone tiles I had left over. I wanted to make something fun-looking with the pipe sections and one of the things I built was this pumping station, which I like so much that I bumped it up to the top of my painting list.

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If you’re familiar with the Battlezones range, you’ll have looked at the stairway on this building and thought – that’s new! The stairway and railings on this building aren’t part of the Battlezones range. One of the members of the ‘Deadzone Fanatics’ Facebook group has designed and 3d printed them. I saw a post showing them, thought they looked brilliant and contacted Luther,the gent who’d created them to ask if he’d be prepared to sell  some to me. Long story short – he was and I bought two sets of the stairs plus two sets of railings.

Luther runs Kraken’s 3D Print Workshop – I advise you to take a look as there are some great pieces suitable for Deadzone, Warpath, Star Wars and fantasy games. Luther sells the 3D print files now more than the printed parts, you can Check out his Facebook page here.

This kit uses one set of stairs- the other is part of another building that I haven’t painted yet, but it’ll find it’s way onto this blog soon. Here’s a closer look at the painted stairs:

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I think they add a perfect touch of scale and realism that is the icing on my Battlezone cake.

The building is painted in the same industrial yellow as the rest of my Industrial Battlezone (and most of the rest of my Battlezone scenery).

I purposefully kept the pipe sections separate from the structure, and made them modular, to give me maximum flexibility when setting up future games of Deadzone. They’re in four sections…

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…and can be assembled at full length, or by leaving out the two-pipe section, a bit shorter.

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The pipes were undercoated in black and airbrushed with a base coat of Citadel Leadbelcher. I mixed some Army Painter String Tone ink with a little green ink and slapped it along the top of the pipes and along the joints and seams.

I’m really pleased with the rust effect on the pipes. I used Modelmates Rust Paint but as I was covering  a bigger area with it than I’d ever attempted before , I tried sponging it on for the first time. Whilst still wet, it looked a bit duff and I felt disheartened, but after drying for 5 minutes the lighter shades of rust came out and I think it looks very realistic. It certainly reinforces the scale of the scenery.

To finish this post off, here’s a couple of close up shots of the rust.

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Thanks for reading!

Send in the Big Guns! Mantic Games Undead Army Balefire Catapults, Painted.

Here’s my Undead army’s artillery, in the form of a battery of three Balefire Catapults.

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There’s usually a good debate about how effective these are in games of Kings of War. With them only having a one in three chance of hitting, you really need to take a battery of three to stand a chance of doing damage each round (lines of sight etc permitting), and three Balefires is a lot of points to sink (300), so I only tend to select them for my army in bigger games , 2,000 points and upwards.

But rules aside, these are nicely detailed hard plastic kits that allow you to build some variety into the look of each Balefire and its crew by positioning each catapult’s arm differently and varying the look of the skeleton crew.

Here’s a look at all three from one side:

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And the other:

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In these photos you can see some of the nice little touches that come with this kit, such as the arm option with the telescope, giving one o he crew a good ‘spotter’ look and the pointing “There, fire over there!” arm.

A skull is sculpted as being loaded onto each catapult and you get a bag o’ ammo and arms clutching several skulls to make up a ‘loader’ crew member.

I’ve painted the catapult’s payload in a sickly glowing green, to match the look of necromantic energy I’ve used across other models and units in my army.

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I’ve added a white rose transfer to the protective shield son the front of each catapult, as this is my army’s sigil:

I painted the wood in a pale colour, thinking of cut wood rather than the darker browns of bark, and an Army Painter Strong Tone ink wash has brought all the nice detail in the sculpt, the wood grain and the rope and many bits of metal bolting and lashing the contraptions together.

Looking at them again whilst writing this blog, I think I’ll go back and hit each catapult with a little bit of the rust effect paint, to make them look really weathered!

Thanks for reading! 🙂

The Other One’s Guide to Painting – Yorkshire Stone Tutorial

After posting up my blog about my Fortified Manor, I received some very flattering comments about how I’d painted the set. Amongst them were a couple of requests for a quick tutorial on how I painted the ‘Yorkshire Stone’ effect. So here we go! 🙂

A quick note first. You may be wondering “Why Yorkshire stone..?”. Two reasons. Reason One: Everybody seems to paint their stone walls, rock faces, hill sides in some variation of black basecoat drybrushed grey. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with this at all, I simply decided that I wanted my scenery to look different. So different how?

That brings me to Reason Two: I live in Yorkshire and ever since I moved here in 1990, I’ve been enchanted by the colour of Yorkshire stone, especially when sunlight is shining on the local buildings and they almost light up with a honeyed glow. So, I decided to try and replicate the golden colour of Yorkshire Stone in my scenery.

You can see examples of this (with varying degrees of success) in how I’ve painted my Tabletop World Stone Bridge, Windmill and the GW Deathknell Watch, Walls and Fences and Fortified Manor. It’s after painting the Fortified Manor that I feel I’m finally happy with how the stone effect looks.

So, here’s how I do it, using a section of stone wall from the GW Garden of Morr kit as an example.

After washing the kit in warm, sightly soapy and allowing it to thoroughly dry, I undercoated it in Vallejo Model Colour Black paint using my airbrush. No reason you can’t use your go-to black undercoat for this, or even brush the undercoat on, as long as it’s a thin coat of paint with even coverage.

Yorkshire Stone Tutorial

Next step, add your base coat. I use Miniature Paints #62 Sand for my Yorkshire stone colour. I have a large tub of this I bought around 2000 which is still great to use, but a quick Google search shows you can get it from Ral Partha Europe in case your local model/craft store doesn’t stock this range.

I airbrushed this on for speed and convenience, leaving a little bit of variation here and there by spraying the paint less thickly in places. Once dried, the wall looks like this.

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I then used a paintbrush to apply the base #62 Sand colour to random pieces of stone, the pillars and capstones. (note the airbrushed base coat looks a little darker in this picture than the one above simply because it was getting dark outside as I took this photo). With the base colour added here and there, the wall looks like this:

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I next mixed a little brown paint into the base colour and painted a couple of random stones using this colour and then did the same by mixing some grey into the base colour and picking out another few stones. This gives four different shades of stone (airbrushed base colour, brushed on base colour and sand/brown and sand/grey), which I’ve found seems to give a final overall effect that’s pleasing to the eye. If you want to go to town you could mix in a little olive green with the base colour too and pick out a few more stones in this.

I painted the earth at the base of the wall Vallejo Model Colour 70.872 Chocolate Brown, the gate and spikes on top of the wall Vallejo Model Colour 70.863 Gunmetal Grey and picked out the Skulls in Army Painter Skeleton Bone. The wall now looked like this:

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The next step is the one that really brings things to life. I brushed on a wash of Army Painter Strong Tone ink. This is marvellous stuff and I always have it and the Soft and Dark Tone inks in my paint box. Apply it liberally. I find that using a flat brush results in less air bubbles in the ink as you apply it, compared to using a ’round’ bristled brush.

Once you’ve coated the entire wall section, give it a minute or two to settle and then look at the wall to see if the ink is pooling too heavily in any one place. if it is, you can remove some using a paintbrush or small twists of tissue paper. NB -I always lay my walls down flat if the model allows it when the ink is drying, so there’s less chance of the ink running down to the bottom half of the piece of scenery.

Give it  a couple of hours to completely dry and the wall looks like this:

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Now at this stage, your wall looks pretty fine, so you could leave it here if you like. But a final drybrush and some detail work will really make it pop.

Now before you drybrush the wall, be absolutely certain that the ink has completely dried. Very little ruins all your hard paintwork like taking a drybrush to a model where the wash isn’t dry and then smearing said wash all over the upper surface of the model. Trust me on this.

I used a 50:50 mix of the Minature Paint #62 sand Vallejo Model Colour 70.847 Dark Sand (which despitethe name is much lighter in colour than Miniature Paint #62 Sand) to drybrush all the stone work, skulls included; whilst trying to avoid the gate and spikes.

When drybrushing, try to work the bristles of the brush down the model predominantly, as light generally hits something from above, not below.

I followed this with  a drybrush of just the Vallejo Dark Sand and finally  a 50:50 mix of Vallejo Dark Sand and pure white. After a quick touch up of the gunmetal paint on the hoops either side of the gate, I added some Modelmates rust effect paint to the metal sections and highlighted the skulls here and there with the same Dark Sand:White mix.

There you have it – job done:

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The Army Painter Strong Tone ink ties together the different shades of stone brilliantly and even adds a degree of shading to each individual block of stone that comprises the wall. It’s really great stuff and I highly recommend it.

I’ll add some static grass to the base of the wall so it ties in with my gaming boards, but that is how I paint Yorkshire Stone on my models. I hope you find this tutorial useful.

Thanks for reading 🙂

15mm Salamander Army for Kings of War

Before Mantic games existed, I played Warhammer using 15mm miniatures. This was chiefly down to what I considered the horrendous cost (even then) of Games Workshop miniatures. Other reasons are that I thought then (and still do today) that rank upon rank of 15mm miniatures laid out on a table just looks great, somehow more impressive than 28mm to me; and that there was fun in looking through the 15mm ranges available and seeng what you could buy or kitbash to fill entries from the army list.

I had a large Undead army, a fledgling Tomb King army and a small Lizardman army. Then Mantic began, my friend Mister C introduced me to them and 28 mm gaming suddenly seemed affordable. The rest, is history,as you can see from all the 28mm Undead army blog posts here.

Recently Mister C has dug out an old 15mm army and devised base sizes to bring it into line with Kings of war at the smaller scale. This weekend, I’ve dug my Lizardman army out of the shed so that I can sit down and begin to work out how if could play as a Salamander army.

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Looking at these Lizardmen for the first time in years, I’m very pleased with how they look and feel quite keen to get underway with a new army list and the work of rebasing them. That’s easier said than done, as at this stage I don’t know what material I’m going to use to create the bases, but at least I can have fun planning out a new army.

Here’s a unit by unit look at the army as it is today. In the future I’ll update the post to show the rebased and renamed units.

First up, my Slann Mage Priest:

Sadly, I don’t think there’s  good ‘port over to the Salamnder army for this chap. He was kitbashed from an old pre-painted D&D model, whose head I bulked out with Milliput to give him a more Slann-like look. The throne is two slotta bases glued together with pieces from my bits box to make up the throne.

Skink Terradon (IIRC) riders. These will become Ghekkotah Skyraiders.

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Saurus warriors, who could become Salamander primes or Ancients. This with spears can be Ceremonial Guard.

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A Saurus Champion / Salamander Battle Captain.

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Mounted Saurus / Kaisenor Lancers

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Kroxigor / Tyrants

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Jungle Swarms (who don’t really have a counterpart in the salamander list).

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Skinks and their mobile ‘cannons’. Can’t remember the names in the Lizardman list, but these will make Lekelidons or Komodons for the Salamanders.

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Skinks / Ghekkotah Warriors

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More Skinks with blowpipes / Ghekkotah Hunters

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Skink characters who could become Mage-Priests and (with a bit of converting) Heralds.

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Lastly, here’s two units I was working on that never got finished. This chap will make a great Battle Captain on Rhinosuar

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And a W.I.P Stegadon that will make a fine Ankylodon Battle Platform.

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So, that’s everything as it stands. Updates to come as progress is made and possibly; new units purchased…

Thanks for reading!

 

 

 

Games Workshop Fortified Manor Scenery, Painted

I bought the Games Workshop Fortified Manor set several years ago. I think it’s such a cool-looking stronghold and the separate components offer some good flexibility in placing scenery, with an individual tower, chapel and walls. I’m very pleased to have bought one before GW slashed their scenery range in favour of the Age of Sigmar stuff (yuk).

I’ve  painted up the Walls and Fences already, but have only just got around to starting to tackle the main parts of the set. I’m essentially using them as practise for when I paint my Tabletop World Blacksmith’s Forge and Watermill.

Now the Fortified Manor is done, I’m happy with how the ‘Yorkshire stone’ effect has turned out and that I can replicate it. on other scenery pieces.

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The set was undercoated in black and I then airbrushed on  a thin, varigated layer of Miniature Paints ‘#62 Sand’ colour as a  base coat. I’ve had a BIG jar of this for years and it’s a great colour. I used it on my Deathknell Watch  tower.

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I then mixed up some Army Painter Skeleton Bone with the sand colour and airbrushed it onto the broad, smooth sections of wall on the tower, chapel and their joining section, which I see as being covered with plaster or render. This match the plaster sections on my Tabletop World Stone Bridge.

Cap stones on battlements, window and door frames and various cornerstones and buttress stones were painted in pure Miniature Paint #62 Sand , leaving the darker, airbrushed sand parts as varigated colour. I mixed the sand colour with grey, brown and green; and then  paint random stones here and  there with those colours to add even more variety to the stone work. This was time consuming but I’m very pleased with the effect.

The plastered/rendered sections were washed with Army Painted Soft Tone Ink and the stone work in Strong Tone ink. Plaster and stone sections received several dry brushings with Army Painter Skeleton Bone, gradually having white added up to a final, very light drybrush of pure white.

The roof tiles were painted Vallejo Model Colour 70.867 Dark Blue Grey and washed in Army Painter Dark Tone ink. Vallejo Model Colour 70.943 Grey Blue was dry brushed on and mixed with more and more white up to  a last drybrush of pure white. I love how the roof tiles look, but do think they look a bit too clean. I may need to add some mucky green here and there to make them look less pristine.

Here’s a closer look at the various sub-sections that make up this set. First up, the watchtower. here it is W.I.P

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And the finished piece:

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There’s lot of extra , optional pieces in this set; wooden bracing structure, lanterns, hanging chains, sword racks etc in addition to the rich detail that’s simply part of the sculpt. Aa nd with this being a GW kit – there is, of course; plethora of skulls!

The Chapel next, which you can see W.I.P here;

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And the finished piece here:

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The section that bridges and joins the Watchtower to the Chapel:

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I think of this little piece as the ‘Outhouse of Doom’ as it brings to mind an outside toilet 😉

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And lastly, the courtyard walls. These are the arts I’m happiest with, as I feel the varigated stone effect and highlighting has worked really well  on them:

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I painted the shield on the wooden gate in blue and yellow, as these are the colours on the Evans coat of arms.

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This set will get a lot of use on games of Kings of war, but i think it’ll also see a lot of action in future games of Vanguard, where the individual components will prove to be very useful.

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Painted Gate for Cthulhu Wars

The one Cthulhu Wars miniature you know you’re going to need in each and every game are the gates. And lots of them.

After painting up a regiment of zombies for my Kings of War army, I needed  a break from panting rank and file so I decided to try out a test colour scheme ad techniques for a Cthulhu Wars gate.

Here’s how it turned out:

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The gates were originally 2D card counters, which work perfectly well, but as one of the stretch goals from the first Cthulhu Wars kickstarter campaign, fully sculpted plastic gates were unlocked. I think these are superb. The detail of the sculpt is great and the design is clever too, as you can fit both a Cultist on the gate to control it or one of the larger monsters (in the very rare circumstances that a monster can control a gate).

Here’s the original card gate and on the right, an unpainted plastic gate:

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I decided to try and replicate the blue/white glow of the card gate on the plastic version and I’m happy with how this has turned out. Some more photos from different angles first so you can see the effect I’ve achieved:

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I love the skull that’s been deposited in one of the four… ‘receptacles’ on the gate. Just had to paint that skull sitting in a pool of fresh blood for  a nice bit of contrast with the cold grey and blues.

The gate was quite simple to paint and I’m happy it didn’t take me too long to do, so I feel I’m able to paint all my gates (or enough for all the possibilities in a 3 to 5 player game, as I don’t have any of the larger sized Cthulhu Wars maps) to the same standard.

The gate was undercoated in black, with a Vallejo Dark Blue Grey #70.867 base coat. I then washed the whole miniature with Army Painter Strong Tone ink and applied two layers of drybrushing. First a 3:1 mix of the Dark Blue grey with white, then a 1:1 mix of the same.

I then picked out all the skulls (I didn’t realise just how many there are until I started painting ’em all!) in Army Painter Skeleton Bone and then washed them all with Army Painter Strong Tone ink, adding a bit more wash to any areas of the grey rocks where the drybrushing was a bit too heavy.

Next up the blue glow. I airbrushed on Vallejo Andrea Blue #70.841, working from the centre of the gate outwards and working my ‘around the clock’ so all the gate was bathed in a blue colour emitting from its centre. I gave  a quick blast of this blue onto the sigils on each of the gate’s four raised columns. I mixed white in with the Andrea Blue in a 4:1 mix and then carefully airbrushed this much brighter blue around the circle in the centre of the gate and over the pentagram, with a quick blast again around the clock so the lighter blue was spilling out from the centre too.

Lastly, I used a fine detail brush to paint pure white into the central circle, pentagram, and various sigils and then drybrushed pure white onto the rest of the gate, again working from the centre outwards.

A quick retouch of bone colour here and there to the skulls and a daubing of my blood effect onto the skull in the receptacle ( a 1:1 mix of Tamiya X27 clear red and Army Painter Strong Tone ink) and the painting is done.

I need to varnish the whole thing, but will use my tried and tested method of using spray gloss varnish followed by a coat of spray matt varnish to dull down the shine. I’ll cover the bloody skull with a blob of blu-tack so that the fresh blood effect isn’t ruined by the matt  varnish.

I can see me losing the will to live a little when it comes to picking out all the skulls when I come to batch paint a large number of these gates in one sitting, but looking forward to playing with the glow effect with the airbrush should keep me going.

I briefly considered painting a few gates with the light effect of the colours of the different Cthulhu Wars factions (green for Great Cthulhu, red for Dark Goat etc) but then this would mean having to sift through the box of gates to find the correct colour to use and then doing so again should a rival faction take over that gate and frankly, that all seems to be too much of pain to bother. I’m pleased with how this gate looks, so will paint all of them in the same way, although I will (eventually) paint the Colour Out of Space gates in their respective colours, so those gates still work with those additional rules.

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Reaper Miniatures Bones ‘Dragons Don’t Share’ Tower

I bought this awesome ruined tower as part of the “Dragon’s Don’t Share” boxed set from Reaper Miniatures Bones range. There’s an excellent Dragon and several adventurers included in the set, but I bought it mainly so I could use these ruins in my games of Kings of War.

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There’s four pieces to these ruins, the lower and upper sections of a ruined tower and two sections of ruined stairway that lead up to it. First up, the ruined tower. Here’s the two pieces together:

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And a closer look at the stairwell in the top of the tower.

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The top section of my tower had warped a little during transit. I used the ‘hot water and ice’ treatment to soften and straighten it, but over time it’s warped back again. It doesn’t matter too much though. Unless you know what you’re looking for it isn’t really obvious and if anything; it adds to the decrepit and precarious look of the tower.

Now the lower part of the tower. This is a great sculpt, with loads of detail. The Bones material holds fine detail very well and seems very well suited to solid, chunky scenery like this.

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I’ve tried to enhance the sculpted details with washes and carefully placed tufts poking up in the broken areas of stone.

The small, lower part of the stairs:

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And the larger part:DDS Tower (12)

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I added static grass to the base of this piece, so it fits in well with my Rolling Fields Tablescapes tiles.  Again, there’s so much great detail here; cracks, rough textures, rubble and stones. These pieces were a joy to paint.

I used my airbrush to undercoat the pieces in Vallejo Chocolate brown, then airbrushed on Miniatures Paints Sand colour as a base coat, leaving the brown showing through here and there for some varigation in colour.

I then mixed the sand colour in varying rations with browns, greens and greys and picked out some blocks of stone in these different colours, to again try and give more of the natural variation in colour stone has. I shy away from the ‘black drybrushed with grey’ approach to my stone and rocks, trying instead to more emulate the local millstone grit here in Yorkshire, which is quite golden in colour.

A wash of Army Painter Soft Tone ink brought out the fine details and tied the colours in the stonework together nicely. I then drybrushed in Army Painter skeleton Bone and a final very light pure white drybrush and added tufts and static grass.

This last shot gives you a sense of scale, with a troop of 10 Mantic Games 28mm Skeletons:

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This last photo is of the paving in the base of the tower, my favourite part of all the sculpting on these pieces:

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Thanks for reading! 🙂

 

Zombie Regiment for Kings of War

Hot off the painting table is this regiment of Zombies for my Undead army in Kings of War:

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The striking big fella dominating the unit is a Flesh Golem by Minion Miniatures. I backed their Kickstarter a couple of years ago to get this model, as I thought it looked just plain cool! You can see the model unassembled and unpainted in an earlier bog post.

The gravestones are by Renedra, with a couple of GW ones from the Garden of Morr set which I had in my bitz box. There are a couple of other GW bitz in there too, such as the body of the Zombie on the far left of he front rank.

The gravestones tie this regiment in with my Zombie Horde and my Ghouls, which feature more gravestones and tombs.

The Flesh golem is a great, patchwork monster. here’s a few more shots showing off his ‘Jhn Carpenter’s The Thing’ inspired face, hideous tentacle arm, flesh shredding shoulder spikes ans clawed arm:

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I love the carapace on the back on the tentacle arm. I painted the Flesh Golem to try and emphasise its patchwork nature, like it had been sewn together from several different beasts, so the legs, torso and face are a more normal skin tone, the clawed arm a rotten green and the tentacle a noisome, ruddy  flesh colour.

There are a few details on the base, like a Zombie head popping up from the ground, a zombie in the process of devouring a victim, a severed arm crawling about and a raven perched on one of the gravestones -I’ll get photos of these too and post them up here. Got to dash now as I’m playing a game of Kings of war tonight and need to get the battlefield ready!

Thanks for reading! 🙂

Mummy Regiment for Kings of War

Here’s my regiment of Mummies for use in my Kings of War Undead Army. It’s comprised of two Troops so I have good flexibility in choosing my army, but the vast majority of the time, I field them as a regiment.

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The unit is predominantly made up of Mantic’s mummies. I found two Tomb Kings miniatures in a bitz box at  a wargames show (the standard bearer and musician) and thought they would add some variety to the unit. I made up two champion figures from other Tomb Kings pieces I have.

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I do feel it makes the unit look a bit more Gee Dubs than Mantic, as the command models are what you see first, but I’m happy with the overall effect. I had a spare carrion model from GW’s Warmaster range and added that for  bit of extra ‘colour’.

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Here’s a close up of one of the Mantic Mummies:

Mummy Regiment 8

From research for an old 15mm Egyptian army I started but never finished, I vaguely remember reading that Egyptian marines wore red and blue. Now, I know these Mummies aren’t Egyptian, but using red for their main colour contrasts nicely with my Skeleton units (whose main colours are green and brown) and compliments other elite units such as my Soul Reaver infantry.

I airbrushed and drybrushed some sandy-coloured dirt onto the tattered ends of the red cloaks. The armour is a bronze colour with a grimey green wash to try and give a verdigris effect. The weapons look fat to uniform to me now, looking at these photos, so I think I’ll add a little rust effect to them.

I painted the Mummies flesh a dark grey, based on actual Mummies I’ve seem in museums.

The icon on the banner and shields is the White Rose motif I’ve chosen for my army. I imagine that the mummies have allied themselves with /been pressed into service for the Lady Melantha, my Vampire  Countess and army general and have adopted her White Rose sigil to show allegiance.

This painted regiment will see action for the first time during any games I play as part of Mantic’s Edge of the abyss summer campaign. Fingers crossed that they don’t suffer the curse of the freshly painted miniatures.

Thanks for reading!